I first started noticing gins from France around 5 years ago. Before that, I had no idea that gins from there could taste so good. Like many, I usually associated other drinks with this country, such as champagne and wine, but not gin! Needless to say, brands like Magellan, G’Vine and, as we will be talking about in this blog, Citadelle, are bringing some of the finest tasting gins to the market. I’ve continued drinking all three since I began seeing them in 2010 and I’m not planning to stop any time soon!
Citadelle comes in two ranges: the classic and the Réserve. The vintage Citadelle Réserve features a golden/yellow coloured liquid and is only produced in set amounts each year – making it much rarer seeing that it’s aged for 6 months in French oak barrels and its recipe is tweaked year after year. I’ll be doing a blog entry on this further down the line, but in the meantime, I’ll share my thoughts on the classic Citadelle gin. Distilled with 19 botanicals, it is considered one of the most complex gins out there and it was all due to the distillery’s strategic location during the spice trade.
This gin was originally produced in 1775 by Carpeau and Stival in the only French Royal Distillery approved by King Louis XVI at the citadel located in Dunkirk – hence its name Citadelle. This decision was not well accepted by the Trade Chamber, however, since they thought it would endanger the ongoing brandy trade in France. They prohibited the trading of gin within their own country, pushing the creators to sell their product overseas. In the late 1700s this spirit’s major consumer was the UK despite the fact their trading relations were halted after entering the American War of Independence. This gin was transported out of Dunkirk’s harbour by English smugglers – an activity that was approved by the French King himself! Eventually, Carpeau and Stival obtained permission to sell within the French territory.
This old gin became dormant for almost two centuries after that and it wasn’t until 1989 that it was revived by Alexandre Gabriel in the Maison Ferrand distillery, near the town of Cognac, while researching old files and records in Flanders for several years. Not only did he unearth and elevate Citadelle’s recipe, but he also pioneered a modern distillation process by using a cognac pot still on a naked (or open) flame – which made him encounter a number of legal hurdles in France, much like Carpeau and Stival. Since cognac pot stills cannot be used during certain months of the year and a naked flame carries more risks than the usual steam-heating methods, Gabriel had to go through years of governmental red tape before finally being granted the chance to produce such a special gin in 1995.
Nowadays, Citadelle’s largest markets include the US, Spain (it’s no surprise it can be found everywhere in Barcelona) and of course, the UK. I must confess there was a time when I was starting to feel a little bored drinking Citadelle and tonic. Somehow it had become commonplace after seeing it in so many bars and restaurants in town, but after conducting some research and learning about the challenges Gabriel encountered, I’ve learned to value each sip and respect the effort and craftsmanship placed in every single bottle.
Citadelle + Schweppes Tonic Water + Cinnamon + Orange
Without question, a concoction fit for a king.
I came across this first recipe in 2011, when Schweppes launched their line of premium mixers and it came as a serving suggestion. Up until then, I had been using other tonic waters with Citadelle – like Seagram’s or Fever Tree, which gave a very refined and high-quality flavour to the cocktail. Then again, there were still many other recipes to explore like this one I’m featuring with Schweppes Heritage Pink Pepper Tonic Water.
When I put this recipe together, the first thing I noticed was the piquant aroma of the pink pepper and the citrus tones from the gin (Schweppes’ distinct signature – lots of gas that amplify the flavours and botanicals). This gin and tonic was fairly bubbly in texture, but wasn’t bitter on the palate – quite the contrary, it was sweeter thanks to the orange peel and cinnamon, but particularly the cinnamon. The pink pepper from the tonic was something I could really taste too and it combined beautifully, giving the mix a sweet and spicy character.
I must say, Schweppes did a very good job pairing this particular tonic water with Citadelle. Definitely one of my favourite blends!
Citadelle + Fever Tree Tonic Water + Granny Smith
An unusual yet tasty gin and tonic mix!
One of the reasons why I wanted to do a blog on Citadelle, to begin with, was because it wasn’t the usual Bombay Sapphire or Tanqueray mixed with lemon. My first encounter with this gin and tonic mix was in a club here in Barcelona called Coppelia Club, located in the Born neighbourhood. Besides being a refreshing new spot to visit on weekends, I discovered it had a beautiful array of over 15 gins behind the bar along with a friendly staff who could fix you a first-class gin and tonic in just a few minutes. I finally saw the light….gins and tonics were no longer limited to 2 or 3 products!
Upon tasting this mixture, the first thing I noticed was the fairly strong acidic taste and subtle sweetness that came from the green apple, which I think combined nicely with Citadelle’s citrus notes. Thanks to the Fever Tree Tonic Water the cocktail wasn’t excessively fizzy either, giving this drink a fairly smooth and balanced texture. If my taste buds serve me well though, I did notice a slightly bitter aftertaste with each swig.
It’s not often that you see green apple combined with Citadelle. I find this recipe very unique and it will continue to be part of my personal G&T combinations, but I do have to say that I still prefer the outcome of Schweppes’ suggested recipe above.
Find out more about the products mentioned in this post below.
Gin Tonic Time 